Everything You Need To Know About Derma Rollers For Hair Growth, According To Experts

With decades of clinical experience between them, the experts we consulted are authorities in hair care that can be relied on to give trustworthy derma rolling advice. Meet the practitioners who shared their guidance and product recommendations below:

“Studies have shown that microneedling can help stimulate hair growth and benefit those with female/male pattern hair loss, doing so because they create a small controlled injury in the skin (your scalp) which subsequently results in the release of hair supportive growth factors,” Kingsley confirms. Additionally, derma rolling helps to promote blood flow to the scalp, which helps with creating stronger and healthier follicles as Gaboardi explains. “This can also help activate dormant follicles, stimulating new growth and more density,” says the celebrity tricholigist.

Anectdotally, there’s a lot of evidence that dermarollers can help with everything from bald spots to beard growth, with users seeing impressive results after consistent use. But, as Dr Tatyna tells us, these results depend heavily on technique and the quality of your device and products. Ideally, Kingsley recommends seeing a trichologist or derm for microneedling as trained professionals can control needle depth and monitor results. “If you do decide to do it at-home, follow all precautionary steps,” she cautions.

1. To begin, ensure your dermaroller is sterilised for hygienic use. It is recommended to start on clean, dry skin, though some people prefer to apply a small amount of hydrating serum first to help with glide.

2. Slowly roll the roller over the target treatment area horizontally, vertically and diagonally with light pressure. Avoid dragging and lift the roller between each pass to prevent snagging hairs. If you are using a derma stamp, press and lift the device over the hairline, and avoid pressing over the same area more than once.

3. Adding serum is optional, since derma rolling triggers the body’s own collagen production and healing response. But if you wish to apply, experts advise waiting 10 to 15 minutes before gently massaging in. “Always follow up with a clean, targeted serum to support healing and results,” says Sey.

4. Disinfect your dermarolling tool after use, ideally with an isopropyl alcohol based cleaner to eliminate bacteria. This step is crucial as the needle will have come into contact with bodily fluids even if it appears clean.

• Do: Allow time for your scalp to recover between sessions. It might be tempting to derma roll daily in the hopes of quick results, but spacing sessions out can help to avoid injury. “Standardised frequency of use hasn’t yet been established for derma rollers,” says Kingsley. As a rule of thumb, do a patch test to see how your scalp tolerates the process and start with one session a week.
• Don’t: Apply minoxidil immediately after use. “Although this is being promoted online, after micro-needling the scalp is extremely sensitive and can be aggravated by alcohol based products such as minoxidil, which may result in infections,” Gaboardi warns. If you are using minoxidil, it’s advisable to wait at least 24 hours after derma rolling before you apply.
• Do: Keep it to yourself. “Derma rollers should be for personal use only and must be replaced regularly according to the manufacturer’s guidelines to maintain hygiene and effectiveness,” says Dr Tatyana.
• Don’t: Apply resurfacing serums when using longer needle depths. Derma rolling can enhance the penetration of your hair care serums, but if your needle is 1mm or more, it’s best to steer clear of irritating ingredients like retinol, AHAs and BHAs. Check the ingredients of your hair growth serum to be safe. If you are using these actives, try applying on alternate days from your derma rolling sessions to minimise adverse reactions.
• Do: Slow your roll. Per Gaboardi, rolling inaccurately or too fast can actually cut the hair shaft.
• Don’t: Use a derma roller over irritated scalp. “Avoid using derma rollers on broken, irritated, or inflamed areas of the scalp,” says Sey.
• Do: remember to replace your derma roller tips. Over time, needles can become blunt and ineffective, even on high quality rollers. Check the manufacturer’s guidance for how often your needles will need replacing. If you’re using a single use roller, discard the head and replace it with a new one after every use.
• Don’t: underestimate derma stamps. “For my patients, I recommend a derma stamp instead of a derma roller,” Gaboardi says. “A derma stamp is less invasive, however still creates micro-tears which aren’t as deep, meaning there are less risks of infections and irritation on the scalp. They are also more precise and easier to use which is great when targeting patches that are thinning,”

The experts agree that it’s worth investing in a high quality roller. “Avoid cheap or poorly made rollers, as they can damage the scalp rather than help it,” says Sey. Materials are key, and medical grade titanium or stainless steel needles come highly recommended. It’s also important to look out for the size of the needles on your roller – bigger is not always better as longer needle depths can carry greater risk of damage and infection. Sey advises sticking to needles in the range of 0.25 – 0.5mm for safe and effective at-home use. The handle of a roller might not be the main attraction, but it’s worth keeping front of mind – you’ll want something well designed and structured that avoids accidents from poor grip or snagging.