It wasn’t long ago that tranexamic acid was the reserve of medicine. Wielded by doctors for its blood clotting properties, it was found effective at halting haemorrhages, and is still used as an intervention in bleeding symptoms today. But a fortuitous mistake ushered the ingredient into mainstream skincare, when a patient prescribed oral tranexamic acid experienced skin lightening as a side effect.
Now, tranexamic acid (also denoted by TXA) can be found over the counter and almost everywhere you look. As a beauty editor with skin prone to hyperpigmentation, tranexamic acid serums have been a saving grace. To find out how tranexamic acid works so well, I asked experts for a full breakdown. Ahead, you’ll find everything you need to know about the ingredient, from the ideal concentration to all the best tranexamic acid products to use.
Best tranexamic acid skincare – Vogue’s top picks:
- Debbie Thomas is a skin and laser expert, VIP facialist and the founder of Clinic.
- Dr Tatyana Lapa-Wright is an aesthetic doctor and the owner of Hardwick Clinic.
“Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine.” Dr Tatyana informs Vogue. It’s not an acid in the conventional sense – it does not have exfoliating properties. But it does have brightening benefits on the skin. According to Thomas, tranexamic acid is used topically for treating pigmentation and inflammatory redness. “It effectively reduces excess melanin production without bleaching or stripping the skin and is ideal for melasma, post-inflammatory pigmentation, and redness-prone skin.”
How does tranexamic acid work on skin?
Oral tranexamic acid is a controlled medicine, usually only prescribed to help with menstrual symptoms or nosebleeds – though some dermatologists may prescribe the pills for melasma patients. Whether oral or topical, TXA works by inhibiting tyrosinase (an enzyme that triggers pigment production) to reduce the appearance of dark patches. Studies have shown tranexamic acid can also reduce inflammation, which makes it helpful in the prevention and reduction of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Thomas and Dr Tatyana add that TXA strengthens the skin barrier, evens skin tone and can soothe redness when used as part of a dedicated routine.
How to use tranexamic acid for hyperpigmentation:
“Apply tranexamic acid once daily (evening preferred), after cleansing and before moisturiser,” Thomas instructs. “Avoid layering with strong acids or retinoids initially – use it on its own for two to three weeks before introducing other actives.” Per Dr Tatyana, beginners should start low and go slow as TXA can be irritating on sensitive skin. And don’t skip the SPF, which Thomas says will protect your results: “Use a broad spectrum SPF, and if it is tinted, even better.“
How long does it take for tranexamic acid to work?
Timelines given by our experts vary, but both agree that tranexamic acid offers “gradual results, not overnight miracles.” On average, you can expect to notice visible improvements in 8 to 16 weeks with consistent use.
What to look for in an effective tranexamic acid formula
- Optimal concentration: According to Thomas, effective tranexamic acid formulas will have TXA listed within the top half of the ingredients list, ideally at a 2-5% concentration. “Higher isn’t always better,” Dr Tatyana notes.
- Additional ingredients: Both experts recommend looking for TXA paired with complementary actives such as niacinamide, azelaic acid, and liquorice root, which safely enhance its effects. “Avoid irritants like alcohol and fragrances, especially for sensitive skin.”
- Protective packaging: Per Thomas, look for airtight, opaque packaging which protects ingredient stability.
Now you know what to look for and how best to introduce tranexamic acid into your skincare routine, you can try using the ingredient to get closer to your clear skin goals. If you’re still not sure where to start, fear not: we’ve curated an edit of effective tranexamic acid formulas below.
How we chose the best tranexamic acid products
Armed with recommendations from trusted skin experts, we set out to find products that met their criteria in terms of concentration, packaging, and composition. We evaluated TXA formulas on their texture and efficacy, with product picks tried and tested by Vogue editors for at least eight weeks. As a Fitzpatrick skin type V that tans easily, I’ve dealt with hyperpigmentation enough times to find the skincare that actually delivers on skin brightening claims. Ahead, the best tranexamic acid creams and serums I’ve tested, plus recommendations from editors and experts alike.
Best soothing: Haruharu Wonder Centella 4% TXA Serum
- TXA concentration: 4%
- Additional ingredients: Centella asiatica complex, niacinamide, vitamin C
- Packaging type: Airless pump mechanism
- Why we recommend it: This serum promotes calm with a silky suspension of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Both prevention and cure, it includes centella asiatica that is great at soothing redness and curbing inflammation – which Dr Tatyana tells us is a trigger for pigment overproduction.
Best clinical: Mesoestetic Melan Tran3x Daily Depigmenting Gel
- TXA concentration: 1.8%
- Additional ingredients: niacinamide, kojic acid
- Packaging type: Opaque, air-blocking pump
- Why we recommend it: Don’t be deterred by the seemingly low concentration of TXA here: it is just one of three brightening agents included in this clinical-grade blend. Working in synergy to resurface dark patches, reduce melanogenesis and prevent pigment transfer to the upper layers of the skin, Hydroxiacid complex, Tyr Control complex and three per cent niacinamide are combined to target stubborn dark spots on all fronts.
- Editor’s note: As it incorporates exfoliants, this cream is definitely best for those whose skin is already acclimated to tranexamic acid. That said, it is the single-most effective tranexamic acid topical I have ever used, effective at lifting even old dark spots. It can be sensitising at first, so I’d recommend phasing it in every other night, and not applying it at all on areas of broken skin.
Best pimple patch: Biore Spot Control Azelaic & Tranexamic Acid Patches
- TXA concentration: 1%
- Key ingredients: azelaic acid, centella asiatica and hydrocolloid
- Packaging type: patch
- Why we recommend it: These stickers do a remarkable job of shrinking active acne, but it’s their effect on dark spots that really sold me. Out of curiosity, I placed one on a blemish overnight, every night for a week and was impressed to discover it lightening up within days. Impregnated with TXA, refining azelaic and healing hydrocolloid, they flatten pimples and prevent dark marks before they can form. A must-have for your bathroom cabinet, they’re also cheerfully cheap – what’s not to love?
Best unscented: Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum
- TXA concentration: 3.5%
- Key ingredients: niacinamide, azelaic acid, kojic acid, glutathione, arbutin
- Packaging type: Tube
- Why we recommend it: Thomas recommends looking for tranexamic products with complementary actives, of which there are plenty in this formula. Among several tyrosinase inhibitors enhancing the action of the main ingredient are liquorice root and azelaic acid – both brighteners that the facialist cosigns for use with TXA.
- Editor’s note: Tranexamic acid has a distinctive smell, which formulators will often try to mask with the addition of fragrance. That’s not the case with Topicals. It’s kept this formulation clean and thus reduced its irritation potential, making it ideal if, like me, you’re breakout-prone. The azelaic acid it contains tackles acne and gently refines texture, too.
Best on a budget: The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Serum
- TXA concentration: 2%
- Key ingredients: niacinamide, acai berry extract, glycerin, squalane
- Packaging type: Pump
- Why we recommend it: The gentle formulation here makes this a good entry-level choice. It is on the lower end of the concentration range experts recommend for efficacy, but that makes it ideal for layering alongside other actives in your skincare routine. We’re also fans of its fluid, non-occlusive texture and the affordable price point.
Best splurge: Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum
- TXA concentration: 3%
- Key ingredients: Alpha arbutin, liquorice complex, red algae, polypeptides
- Packaging type: Opaque glass bottle, airless pump
- Why we recommend it: With the best packaging of any of the serums we tried, Allies Of Skin goes the extra mile to preserve the potency of its tranexamic acid formula. It’s not premium for the sake of presentation alone – the silvered glass shields the elixir inside from oxidation. This means that the blend of tranexamic acid, peptides and tyrosinase inhibitors it contains stays effective until the last pump.
- Editor’s note: The asking price here is justified by a formula that acts fast to fade discolouration. It worked well on my PIH and has excellent reviews for reducing age spots, but it doesn’t just zero in on dark patches. It conditions skin with peptides for a face that’s smoother and plumper too. During tests, I found it was hydrating and potent enough to eliminate the need for other items in my routine like essences, moisturiser and vitamin C. Invest here if you want to simplify your skincare with one product that actually works.
The cult tranexamic acid serum: Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4%
- TXA concentration: 4%
- Key ingredients: 10% Niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides
- Packaging type: Dropper bottle
- Why we recommend it: The subject of several rave reviews, this Korean serum targets deep-rooted dark spots on two fronts: its high concentration of tranexamic acid suppresses melanin synthesis at the cellular level, while niacinamide stops pigment from travelling to the upper layers of skin. Because the latter also targets pore size, you get a complexion that is more uniform, with ceramides smoothing your barrier for a glass skin effect. Our only gripe is that the bottle does little to keep out oxidising light and air – though you can easily offset this by storing it in the fridge. Its thin, runny texture is like a drink for thirsty skin and will appeal to those with a layered skincare and make-up routine. The most concentrated on this list, we recommend patch testing before starting with nightly use and working your way up to regular application.
