Over the last few years, the denim market has been all about offering the perfect pair of classic, straight-leg jeans. However in 2024, we have seen the rise of “fashion denim”, with bold silhouettes and couture-like craftsmanship. From the gold tinsel-adorned jeans at Undercover to the baggy styles embellished with chamomile flowers at Gucci, designers have been putting their own twists on denim, inviting us to venture far beyond our usual 501s.
When it comes to fit, Alaïa set the direction with the horseshoe silhouette, first introduced in its autumn/winter 2023 collection. It has an exaggerated shape that curves off the hip and then boomerangs back in at the ankle, creating a banana-like silhouette. While this iteration is slightly avant garde, designed to appeal to a more high-fashion customer, it has sparked a wider barrel-leg jeans movement, with tapering ranging from subtle to more sculptural curves.
Alaïa’s horseshoe jeans have become a celebrity staple over the past year, as Sienna Miller wore a pair to Cannes Film Festival in May and Julianne Moore recently styled a pair in a lighter wash with a matching denim shirt. Powerhouse denim brands, including Frame, Citizens of Humanity and Agolde, have all seen success with a similar bubble-like barrel shape, making it a more commercial offering, rather than just a street-style phenomenon. Miller even included a pair in her collection for M&S in the hope that this silhouette can have the same mass, approachable appeal as a baggy jean or a straight-leg pair.
“The horseshoe feels a bit sculptural, but still has the ability to look relaxed and sophisticated. It references vintage styles, yet feels modern,” Marianne McDonald, creative director at Citizens Of Humanity, previously told Vogue of why this shape feels particularly relevant for now. “It’s a divisive style though, and when it was first posted on Instagram people had very strong opinions. That’s when we realised we had a bestseller on our hands!”
Erik Torstensson, co-founder and creative director of Frame, previously told American Vogue that this silhouette is quickly becoming a bestseller too — “For those who prefer to make a statement, the bubble jean offers a more exaggerated take on the barrel silhouette. This fit features a sculptural, curved outseam and a flattering shape at the mid-thigh.”
For those who favour a more streamlined, classic denim silhouette, there are a number of barrel legs that have a slight gradient. Minimalist brand Toteme has a more streamlined take, available in every colour wash you could hope for, while Whistles’s barrel-leg jeans have been a core product for the brand for years. I have been buying these jeans since 2019, as for me, I have found these are the best proportioned jeans on the high street, sitting high on the waist and with just the right about of slouch on the leg.
Keep reading for Vogue’s edit of the best barrel-leg jeans for 2024 and beyond.
