Can oils actually help with hair growth?
Our experts agree that oils can be helpful for hair growth, especially if you are concerned with retaining long and healthy lengths. This is as most oils are rich in fatty acids that can help preserve the structure and strength of your strands. It’s wise not to expect miracles though: Ohta tells us these kinds of oils will reduce breakage and hair fall, but “do not inherently support hair growth.”
Ball explains further, making a distinction between “active” and “occlusive” oils. In her words, essential oils (which are highly concentrated extracts containing bioactive plant compounds) can have a medicinal effect on the scalp. These include rosemary, peppermint and tea tree oil.
“In contrast, occlusive oils represent a category of relatively inert lipids that function primarily at the stratum corneum level of the scalp and along the hair shaft.” she reveals. “Their primary role is to form a hydrophobic barrier, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss and facilitating the retention of essential moisture within the hair fibre. This contributes to enhanced hair hydration, elasticity, and overall integrity.” It’s these oils (such as Jamaican black castor oil, jojoba and argan oil) that will help you keep strong and healthy ends that remain long. While oils can help with hair health, if you are dealing with unusual hair fall, it’s a good idea to see a doctor to get to the root of your hair loss.
What to look for in a hair growth oil
“Look for ingredients like saw palmetto, pumpkin seed, rosemary oil, biotin, and essential fatty acids,” says Sey, whose Tricho Restore formula contains many of those ingredients. “These target inflammation, improve circulation, and support follicle health.” Ball concurs, adding that pumpkin seed oil is recognised for its “DHT-blocking properties, a hormone linked to both male and female pattern baldness.” According to Reckendroff, it is equally important what’s not in a hair growth oil or serum formula. “Avoid ingredients which might create build-up and disrupt the scalp environment.”